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When we moved on to Helmsdale Lodge Youth Hostel, we took the main road to Inverness, then crossed the Black Isle to Cromarty, pausing for lunch at Chanonry Point. Apparently it’s a good place to spot whales and dolphins, but not during our brief stop. The ferry from Cromarty to Nigg was an interesting experience. The smallest ferry so far carrying just two vehicles. We were second on and our back wheels were only just off the ramp which couldn’t be raised properly. Good job it was a calm sea and only a 10 minute crossing! When I told Racheal we were going on another ferry, she said ‘no’. I think she thought it would be like the overnight crossing from Lerwick to Aberdeen. Once we were on the boat, she thought it was great fun, and possibly relieved it wasn’t so rough! We had three nights at Helmsdale, a friendly 24 bed hostel with en suite rooms. It wasn’t advertised as an accessible room, but I had spoken to the warden before booking and decided we would be able to manage. It did mean carrying/dragging all our equipment all the way round the building from the car parked just the other side of a high wall to the level access at the back of the building. We used a Racheal’s smaller chair for indoors and kept her Treki in the bike shed when we weren’t using it. We were also able to hoist her onto a sofa in the common room, which she enjoyed. The day after we arrived, we set off to complete the North Coast 500. Our first stop was in Wick where we found a ‘WashMe’ automatic laundry service at the Co-op. This was the first time we hadn’t had the use of a washing machine where we were staying, but the service was efficient and the washing finished by the time we had eaten our picnic. Next stop John O Groats where it was very windy and Racheal did not like it one bit! One thing on my wish list for this trip was to visit the Castle of Mey. Unfortunately it is totally inaccessible for wheelchair users, but Summer kindly offered to sit with Racheal in the cafe while I had a look round. We followed the road to Thurso, so completing the NC500 as we turned inland at the point we had reached before going to Orkney. The A9 took us across some remote country until we got back to the east coast and returned to the hostel.

After a choppy sailing from Lerwick to Aberdeen when the best place to be was asleep in our cabin, we drove to Montrose to meet up with a Guiding friend, Laurie, who I haven’t seen for at least 20 years. She hadn’t changed a bit! We spent a pleasant day at the Scottish Wildlife reserve and by the sea, before heading north to Carron to stay with some other dear friends, Stella and Howard, for four nights. We were treated to home cooking, fresh bread, local sightseeing, a chance to relax a bit and lovely company. Summer started knitting her first pair of socks under Stella’s expert guidance, and Racheal’s log book was updated. Stella gave us a fascinating tour of Knockando Mill, where she works as a volunteer. Racheal couldn’t get everywhere, but there were plenty of things for her to feel and smell. On the way to Brodie Castle we stopped at a magnificent view point, but as usual the photos don’t do it justice. The Playful Park at Brodie Castle kept us entertained for quite a while and there were things for everyone to enjoy. The castle itself wasn’t wheelchair accessible, but Racheal and Stella went for a walk while Summer and I went on a tour of the castle. On our final day, we went for a local walk where Racheal got to smell the nearby whiskey distillery and hear the River Spey. I also managed to fit in a short catch up with an old school friend, Angela, so definitely a week of rekindling old friendships for me! A lovely time, over too soon.

We spent 5 nights on Shetland, our longest stay in one place during the whole Scotland adventure. We’ve covered the length and breadth of Shetland Mainland. We’ve driven as far south as you can go, taken the ferries to Yell and Unst going as far north as we could get, crossed the bridges to Trondra and Hamnavoe from Scalloway, and explored as far west as Eshaness. We didn’t have time to travel to the islands to the east, but Unst got us fairly well east as well as north. On the day we travelled to the north west, we visited Hillswick Wildlife Rescue Centre. There were only two seals in residence, Smudge who has a chromosome disorder and cannot return to the wild as he can’t see or swim well enough to hunt, and Leo who was rescued from Orkney at a few days old when his mum failed to return to feed him. Leo will soon be strong enough to return to the sea. Summer was able to help Racheal feed them some fish, while the centre’s founder told us about their work. We also visited a small museum at Tangwick, in the Haa (manor house). The The following day we walked into Lerwick, only a 10 minute walk. We explored the museum which had some things Racheal could feel or listen to and a lift to upstairs. After a mediocre lunch in the arts centre next door, we wandered through the small shops and took a look at the old harbour. Across the road from our ground floor flat, with level access at the back, was a play park with wheelchair accessible swing. It would be rude not to try it out! Our radar key opened the gate, and unlocked the swing from a securing post. Summer had been researching evening activities for us and found a fiddle music session about 20 minutes away in Sandwick, which we all enjoyed. The first wet day of our trip was the day we had chosen to go to Unst, the most northerly inhabited island of the British Isles. Undeterred, we set off to catch the ferry to Yell and then on to Unst. The young man directing the boarding of the Unst ferry, which carries a whopping 12 vehicles the 10 minute journey, informed us it had been ‘manic’ because of the Unst show. We later discovered virtually everything was closed because of said show, but we were able to visit the unmanned, Viking long house museum. Our biggest challenge was the path at Hermaness. This leads to the most northerly point but, despite our best efforts, we had to give up when we came to the first board walk because it had steps. The path does not claim to be wheelchair accessible, but I wanted to see how far we could get! Before heading back to Lerwick, we stopped off to post cards at the most northerly post office in Baltasound so they would get the special postmark. Our visit to Shetland was rounded off with a visit to the Croft House museum and water mill. We had been warned about the narrow doors at the Croft, so took Racheal’s smaller chair. There were lots of things for her to feel and the fire was burning so it was very cosy inside. Finally, as we waited for the ferry in the afternoon we hoped to visit Scalloway castle. However, it was closed for structural repairs so after a walk through the village we drove to Hamnavoe where we discovered a tiny cottage covered in shells.

We spent a comfortable, but short, night in one of the accessible cabins on the NorthLink ferry from Kirkwall to Lerwick. We didn’t board until 11.45pm so by the time we got to bed it was nearly 1am and the ship’s horn sounded at 6am to wake everyone to be ready to leave the ship at 7.30am. After breakfast in a café watching an otter hunting in the bay, we drove south to Sumburgh Head lighthouse. I was delighted to find that the place is now a visitor centre and some of the volunteers there knew the old lighthouse keeper who had shown us round the lighthouse when I was a teenager camping nearby with my family. Still enjoying beautiful weather, and with most of the day to fill before we could check in to our Airbnb we grabbed a quick lunch at Sumburgh airport and made use of the Changing Places Toilet before a visit to St Ninian’s Isle, or at least to the tombolo which connects it to the mainland. Once again the Treki was put through it’s paces. Getting back up the soft sand path would have been a struggle but kind people offered to help pull as Summer pushed. Racheal loved the sound of the sea on both sides of her and Summer took the opportunity to have a paddle. We knew our spacious, ground floor flat was going to be a bit of a challenge to get into as the owner had explained that the entrance porch was narrow, but fortunately there was space outside, under cover, to hoist Racheal into her Convaid Cruiser (smaller chair). This is the biggest accommodation we’ve had so far with room to leave the changing table up all the time - a real luxury!

The ferry from Scrabster to Stromness takes 90 minutes, passing by the island of Hoy and its famous stack, The Old Man of Hoy. We were boarded onto the ferry right next to the lift which took us up to a comfortable seating area. NorthLink Ferries all have a full size Changing Places Toilet, so Racheal’s personal care was reasonably easily attended to, except for the movement of the boat which made things a little trickier than usual. The sea was actually very calm, but the slightest movement can cause an incident with free moving ceiling hoist! When not in use the hoist is secured with three posts which screw into the tracking to keep it still. From the ferry terminal in Stromness we had a short drive to Orphir and the Airbnb which would be home for the next three nights. It was a ground floor flat with ramp access. Again we used Racheal’s smaller chair indoors, keeping the Treki in the car after hoisting Racheal between the two. The twin room was down a short passage round a corner, so Racheal and I shared the more easily accessible double room. The weather has been beautiful, though it’s starting to get cooler at night, we determined to make the most of our 3 nights on Orkney. It was lovely to meet up with Charlie, who I hadn’t seen for a long time. She gave us lots of suggestions for places to go and accessibility info. We went to the Italian chapel, built in the Second World War by Italian PoWs when they were drafted in to build barriers between some of the islands to prevent attack from the German navy. The door to the chapel was very narrow and we only just got Racheal’s Treki through the door. A standard wheelchair would have been easier. Skara Brae, a Neolithic village, is a must for any visitor to Orkney. Though not fully accessible due to its age and fragility, the site have done their best to make it as accessible as possible. We were able to get inside the replica house, though the corners were a bit tight, and there were some things Racheal could feel in there too. Our second day was spent in and around Stromness. A pleasant walk by the sea, picnic in the memorial garden, and browsing the shops along the narrow main street. Our final day on Orkney was a long one. Up early to try to leave the Airbnb by 10am (we were half an hour late!) and time to fill until the ferry to Shetland at 11.45pm. With no base for Racheal’s personal care we centred ourselves around Kirkwall where we had the choice of Changing Places Toilets in the hospital and the bus station. The first very light, airy and spacious, the second boiling hot, less well maintained but more convenient. Before going into Kirkwall, we visited the Sheila Fleet Kirk Gallery and cafe. The shop mostly sells eye wateringly expensive jewellery and some other local craftspeople’s wares. There’s a lift to upstairs which we made use of, but didn’t purchase anything. There’s is also a very nice cafe where Summer got to sit in a traditional Orkney chair, and there was a visitor book to add one of our gap year stickers to. After a picnic by the sea, we spent the afternoon exploring the city of Kirkwall. St Magnus cathedral and a bit of shopping. I’m quite proud that we’ve been away for two weeks and so far my shopping all fits in a small paper bag! From Kirkwall we drove west and then round the northwest coast, stopping at a place which holds special memories for me - the beach at Evie. A few moments to reflect before moving on to Birsay bay to watch the sea birds and the sun begin to set. Summer had found out about a traditional Orkney storytelling evening, 8-10pm, which filled the time nicely before we caught the ferry to Lerwick. It took place in the home of a lady who moved to Orkney from mainland Scotland in the 1970’s. The room was a treasure trove of items related to the sea and traditional Orkney life. She was happy for things to be handled, so Racheal got to feel all sorts of things. It was a great experience and we all enjoyed it very much, but sadly had to leave before the end as it overran and we needed to be at the ferry terminal in good time. Sad to leave Orkney so soon. I have loved the scenery, the ancient sites, places revisited and new discoveries, but Shetland awaits!

This interesting wall was on the outside of one of the craft units at Balnakiel craft village, right up in the northwest corner of Scotland. On the way here we found a lovely spot for a picnic enjoyed on Summer’s new picnic rug. The terrain across the north coast is not as steep, though there are still stretches of single track roads. The road crosses the causeway at Tongue, which virtually obliterates two small islands in the Kyle of Tongue, before climbing quite steeply. There are some beautiful bays and beaches along the stretch to Thurso, though we didn’t have time to stop. Thurso itself doesn’t have much character, but we found an Indian Restaurant, the Spice of Bengal, to enjoy an evening meal and celebrate Summer’s A level results a week late! We stayed in the Premier Inn for one night ready to catch the ferry to Orkney. Not the best experience of this hotel chain due to the ridiculous amount of noise from the people in the room above us! Racheal was able to have a shower in the wet room though, and the beds are always comfy.

Whilst staying at Inchnadamph, we had two full days to explore the area. The first we spent in Ullapool sampling a haddock wrap from the seafood shack and browsing the local shops. The second day we did a circular route via Drumbeg and Lochinver, back on tiny single track roads. We sampled muffins at the ‘Secret Tea Garden’ in Drumbeg followed by a picnic at the view point. After chatting with a couple from France for a while, we continued to Lochinver and the Spar shop for supplies!

Leaving Applecross, we followed the North Coast 500 on, mostly, single track roads to Gairloch. There weren’t too many other vehicles on the road and those we did encounter we passed easily on the numerous passing places. We stopped for a delicious steak sandwich in Gairloch, sitting by the water’s edge on the ‘sitooterie’. A wander along to the harbour to stretch our legs before more miles on the road, we saw fishing nets being mended and some keen sea kayakers. Our route took us slowly further north until we reached Ullapool complete with a very nicely kept Changing Places Toilet to change Racheal and Tesco to stock up on supplies. Just half an hour further up the road, we arrived at Inchnadamph Explorers’ Lodge which would be home for the next 3 nights. The ‘accessible’ room here was very small and required some furniture moving so we could get Racheal in. I had to push the two single beds together (and climb over the end of my bed to get into it) so we could manoeuvre the hoist for Racheal. Even then we often ended up with the hoist and or chair outside in the corridor to give us more space. However, we received a warm welcome and the staff were very helpful. Racheal could have a shower in the wet room, which was a bonus. Apparently there are plans to build a fully accessible extension to the main hostel which would be wonderful.

We drove from Inverness to Applecross via Lochcarron, where we found an accessible cafe for lunch followed by a short walk along the water’s edge. From there we took the single track, winding road over Belach na Ba to Applecross. Racheal thoroughly enjoyed the twisting and turning, up and down road, while Summer and I were awed by the scenery. I had to stop a few times to have a good look at the view because you can’t look properly when concentrating on driving. At the end of the pass we were treated to our first encounter with Highland coos before arriving at our youth hostel accommodation. Our room was in the bunk house, which we used our portable ramps to get into. We kept Racheal’s Treki in the car, using her smaller chair indoors to make it easier to get around. It was a very friendly place and we had our first really relaxing day since we left home - a walk by the river down to the bay in the morning and a wander through the tiny village in the afternoon. We continue to be blessed with gorgeous weather, so Summer went for a dip in the river before tea. We all loved Applecross and were sorry to leave so soon, but after two nights we were in our way again, heading north up the west coast on the North Coast 500.

Watch the short video below for a little review of Inverness Youth Hostel’s accessible room. We were able to give Racheal a shower here using an inflatable camping mat for her to lie on and hoisting her through to the bed to get dry and dressed.

This is our quirky cottage in Peebles. It’s important to point out that the majority of the accommodation we are using is not advertised as accessible. We have found that on the whole, fully accessible accommodation is way out of our price range and often not in the paces we want to go. We carry our own equipment to improve accessibility and make places work the best we can, checking with property owners about door widths, turning circles and steps before booking. We have the advantage of being able to manage without an accessible bathroom, as Racheal does not use the toilet and I’m happy for her to have a good bed bath if there is not a wet room. Our cottage in Peebles was tiny and had a step up to the door. We used our portable ramp and a smaller ‘indoor’ wheelchair chair, leaving the Treki in the car to save space. It was ideally located, close to the town centre and a supermarket. The only rectangular room was the sitting room. Racheal had a tiny triangular bedroom off the sitting room and Summer had a larger quirky shaped room. Ann and I slept in the sitting room. It was very cosy, but we weren’t there much as we used it as a base to explore Edinburgh, and to visit the Scottish Tapestry. Peebles itself is a small town with a busy high street, rambling side streets and an interesting ramp up to the church for wheelchair access. Having negotiated this, we sadly found that the wheelchair accessible door into the church was locked- a bit disappointing. The chocolate shop had been recommended and did not disappoint! A must on the day Summer got her A level results. The Great Tapestry of Scotland was only half an hour’s drive away. An accessible building with welcoming, helpful staff and only 5 minutes walk from the bus station where there was a changing places toilet. It’s one of those places you could visit again and again and still find more things to discover. Not only were the stitching and designs beautiful to look at, it also told the history of Scotland in easy to digest, bite sized chunks. We made some suggestions on how to make it more inclusive for people with visual impairments, as Racheal is blind, and the staff seemed genuinely interested. All in all, a relaxing day out when combined with a picnic on the way and a piece of cake in the café afterwards. When we left Peebles, after a 4 night stay, we dropped Ann off at the railway station and headed for Stirling Highland Games. There we spent a couple of hours watching the events, wandering around local craft stalls and eating our picnic. The sports centre next door had a changing places we could use before getting back on the road to head for the youth hostel at Inverness.

Two very hot trips to Edinburgh from our quirky cottage in Peebles. On Wednesday we took the Park and Ride bus into the city, found a little café for lunch, then ambled down the Royal Mile to watch street performers. Racheal was particularly taken with the hand pan drum and didgeridoo. The streets were very crowded, making it a bit awkward to get through with her wheelchair, but we weren't in a rush. We went in the Fringe shop, which had ramped access, then on to St James Place shopping centre where there was a fully functioning, clean Changing Places toilet. Just outside we found the 'W' hotel, an interesting spiral building with a lift to the restaurant at the top which had fantastic views over the city. Drinks here were only a few pence more expensive than the café we had lunch in. We didn't look at the food menu, which was probably pricey, but for a drink with a view it was a good find. As the weather was unbearably hot, Ann, Racheal and I sat in Princes St gardens while Summer went off exploring. We were treated to an incredible performance on the xylophone accompanied by tap dance and drum. Tattoo Thursday evening, not quite as hot but plenty warm enough, we had ring side seats for the Edinburgh Tattoo. Prior to the event we were able to meet in a nearby street to join a convoy of vehicles carrying passengers with disabilities, and drive right onto the esplanade. After leaving Ann, Summer and Racheal to find our seats, I drove back to the parking area where the cars were attended by security guards for the duration of the performance. The whole process then happened in reverse to pick passengers up at the end. All very well organised and so easy for those who have difficulty walking. Needless to say, the Tattoo was stunning. The photos below give a taste. Very late night as it didn't finish until 11pm, and we didn't get back to our cottage until 12.45am, but well worth it. A tick on the bucket list for Ann and me!!