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When we left Mull, We drove from Oban for a couple of hours down the Kintyre Peninsula to Saddell. We had booked a Landmark Trust property on the Saddell estate. The Landmark Trust is a charity which rescues historic buildings and renovates them to let out as holiday homes. Staying at Saddell Lodge was a bit of a treat, and in many ways a step up from our humble yurt. However, we did feel a little cut off from the outside world as, not only was there no Wi-Fi, there was also no mobile phone signal! It was actually quite refreshing to have a simple life away from the constant demands of modern technology. And anyway, we could catch up with all the emails and messages when we went into nearby Campbelltown. As the weather was nice, we spent some time exploring the estate where you can also stay in a castle, a Ferryman’s cottage, a cottage on the beach or a large house that sleeps 13 people. None of the others would’ve been suitable for Racheal, but we were quite happy in our little cottage. All the properties on the estate can use a bothy on the beach to go to for picnics if they wish. We didn’t take our picnic, but we did take a drink and a packet of biscuits when we went out for a walk. it really was a beautiful place. During our days on Kintyre, we visited the smokehouse at Skipness, the garden centre at Glennbarr, and the ruined Saddell Abbey. On the last day, we decided that we really should go to a whiskey distillery having been in Scotland for nearly 6 weeks. It turned out to be an excellent sensory experience for Racheal as our guide, Claire, found as many things as she could for Racheal to feel, smell and even taste. To keep the cost down for our gap year experience, we are mostly self catering. These cows were fascinated as they stood and watched through the kitchen window while we prepared our meals!

Having followed the main road on Mull, a single track road with passing places, for 50 minutes we turned off down a winding lane then turning onto a rough track. We arrived at the gate to the field where our accommodation for the next four nights could be found. The gate was a bit of a challenge as it was broken at the hinge end and rather heavy, but Summer managed to get it open and closed again behind the car. The field was very wet, but fortunately the ground was firm as we negotiated our way to the yurt in the far corner. It had been raining quite hard during our journey, but the rain had stopped in time for us to unload the car and settle in. From the outside the yurt look like a parcel bundled together with string, but inside it was cosy and warm with a very comfortable double bed, two fold out chair/single beds, a camp kitchen, table and chairs, rugs on the floor, a wardrobe and most importantly, a wood burner. The only light was from a Perspex disc in the roof and rechargeable torches. Outside were two sheds one housing the compostable toilet, the other a gas powered shower. We were looking forward to our glamping experience, despite the pouring rain that had started up again outside. The first day we thought we would go to Tobermory, but we didn’t set off until late morning and were further delayed by cows in the road, so when I saw a sign post to the Old Post Office Tearooms I thought it would be a good lunch stop. What I hadn’t noticed in small letters at the bottom of the sign was ’ 8 miles’! The road was narrow twisting, over tiny humpback bridges and up and down some steep hills, but when we got there, it was well worth the journey. It was only a very small café and we were lucky to get the last table. Due to the length of time it had taken to get there and back, we decided to abandon our trip to Tobermory and just go to Craignure to fill up with fuel and stop at a launderette machine on the way back to the yurt to catch up with some much needed washing. Summer and Racheal then caught up with Racheal‘s logbook before enjoying some relaxation, Summer knitting her socks and Racheal with her string lights that we brought with us. The second day we did make it to Tobermory, a nearly 2 hour journey due to a road being closed. There aren’t many alternatives on the small island. We stopped for a picnic at a beautiful spot on the way but had to sit in the car as the ground was so wet. In Tobermory, we walked around the bay popping in and out of shops and visiting the small, local museum, dodging the rain when necessary. Ardtun, the village where we were staying, was only 20 minutes from the Iona ferry. We had saved this trip for our last day on the island, but unfortunately high winds were forecast for the afternoon. We set off to get the 10 o’clock ferry as foot passengers so that we could at least have a couple of hours exploring Iona. It was a shame that we had to come back again on the 12 o’clock ferry, but at least we got to see the abbey and the small village. It was particularly special to be there on a Sunday morning thinking about those who have worshipped God in this place for hundreds of years. On the way to the Craignure to catch the ferry back to Oban, we just had time to detour to have a peek at Duart Castle. We really enjoyed our our time on Mull, even the wind and the thunderstorms were fun! Maybe we will return one day.

We decided to spend our only full day at Glen Nevis taking the train from Fort William to Mallaig. This is one of the prettiest train rides in the country, passing over the famous Glenfinnan viaduct. Unfortunately , the Jacobite steam train is not wheelchair accessible, but the regular, Great Western Railway service travels the same tracks at a fraction of the price. It made a change from driving and I enjoyed being able to look at the view rather than the road. Racheal always enjoys a train journey and we were able to describe the scenery to her. The lovely conductors also pointed a few things out on the route, and were very attentive to Racheal’s accessibility needs. In Mallaig we visited the small museum then bumped into a German girl we had met at the youth hostel. She was travelling alone, hostelling for the first time, so we invited her to join us for coffee at a café. We all sat together for the return journey on the train and then gave her a lift back to the youth hostel. As we got back it started to rain again. Racheal has enjoyed helping us cook in many of the places we’ve stayed, but Glen Nevis youth hostel kitchen was not really accessible so Racheal and I sat in the dining room while Summer prepared a meal. Because of the rain, we didn’t load anything into the car that evening. We usually put what we can in the car the night before we leave so that we can get away promptly in the morning. So the next day when we left to drive to Oban, we had everything to put in the car, and it was still raining. It did stop in time for us to stand on the bridge over the River Nevis and listen to the water rushing beneath. Racheal definitely enjoys the sound of fast moving water and, as Summer said - we got Racheal as far up Ben Nevis as we could! With the rain stopped, we had a pleasant drive to Oban where we had lunch in Tesco, and stocked up on provisions. However, by the time we left it was pouring with rain again and we couldn’t wait for it to pass over as we had a ferry to catch to Mull. We got to the ferry terminal with only a couple of minutes to spare before check-in closed. There had been some misunderstanding about our access requirements, the staff on the ferry thinking we needed extra space at the side of the car rather than the rear. This meant we had to move the car and squash between two other vehicles in order to get the rear access and I couldn’t get out of the car! Eventually, after a bit of shuffling, I managed to get just enough space to open my door and squeeze out. Meanwhile, Summer had managed to take the trolley out of the back of the car, get Racheal out and put the trolley back secured for the crossing. It was all quite an adventure. There was lots to see on the ferry crossing as there is almost always land in sight as it weaves between mainland Scotland, Kererra, Lismore and Mull. The hour’s drive from Craignure to our yurt in Ardtun took us through beautiful sunshine and heavy showers. The views were stunning despite the weather. This was an A road which comprised mostly of single track road with passing places, something we’ve seen a lot of in Scotland. We found our yurt along an uneven track, through a gate and across a field with three sheep in it. We managed to get everything unloaded in the dry just before another heavy downpour.

With the car once more loaded, we set off to Glen Nevis youth hostel, at the foot of Ben Nevis, near Fort William. This turned out to be a day with a few disappointments. The first section of the journey we had done before but still enjoyed the views, particularly the fairy tale castle at Dunrobin. Having passed through Inverness twice already, we took the road to the west of the city, through Dingwall and Beauly to Drumnadrochit. Here we had hoped to have a picnic lunch at Urquart Castle and explore the ruins. This was our first disappointment. At the gate stood a man holding a clipboard. ‘Have you booked?’ he asks. ‘Er, no.’ After a brief exchange when he explained we would have to book on line for entry an hour later, we sadly decided we would have to continue our journey without seeing the castle. The drive down the side of Loch Ness was also disappointing because we couldn’t see it through the trees, making sightings of Nessie impossible! There were no parking places big enough get out of the car for our lunch until we got to the village of Invermoriston, which is set back from the water. Moving on again, just as it started to rain, we continued to Fort Augustus. Here, at last, we could get a good view of the famous lake, enjoy a coffee between the river and the Caledonian canal and visit some craft and gift shops. Surprisingly, we also ticked ‘watch glass blowing’ off Racheal’s ‘Back to Basics Bucket List’. The road from Fort Augustus to Fort William took us along the west shore of Loch Oich and the east of Loch Lochy, the latter was particularly pretty - and we could see it! We arrived at Glen Nevis youth hostel and another disappointment which was to make life much more difficult for the next two nights. I have spent over a year researching places to stay, contacting each one directly often by phone. I always check that there will be a bed we can hoist Racheal onto, not bunk beds as there isn’t enough head room and with space below the bed for the wheels of the hoist. If a place can’t meet these essential requirements, I don’t book. So to be told by the young man, who was pleased to tell me that he was the person I’d spoken to a year ago, that all the accessible rooms have bunk beds did not make me very happy at all! I asked if there was an alternative room with a double or twin beds, but no. The only solution was to put a mattress on the floor and use her Promove sling to physically move her to and from positions we could then hoist her in and out of her chair. When I checked the hostel’s accessibility statement, it clearly says there are twin or bunk accessible rooms available, and shows photos, but this, apparently, was incorrect. An email to Hostelling Scotland will follow in due course! And then it rained while I was unloading the car!

We had three nights, therefore two full days, at Helmsdale. Having spent the first day mostly in the car, we didn’t want to drive so far on the second day, so we set off south towards Dornoch. On the way we stopped off for a walk along the sea front at Golspie, and to use the Changing Places Toilet, before having a picnic in the car at the Nature Reserve on the southern shore of Loch Fleet. There were plenty of birds to see, and a seal or two kept us entertained. Dornoch is a pleasant town where we spent a happy afternoon in the small museum, the tiny cathedral and the shops. Racheal chose a book of Scottish folk tales which we have slowly been making our way through since. Back at the hostel, there was time to relax outside in the sunshine before starting on the evening meal and time consuming preparations of medicines, feeds and other medical stuff which take up much of our time when we’re not out exploring!

When we moved on to Helmsdale Lodge Youth Hostel, we took the main road to Inverness, then crossed the Black Isle to Cromarty, pausing for lunch at Chanonry Point. Apparently it’s a good place to spot whales and dolphins, but not during our brief stop. The ferry from Cromarty to Nigg was an interesting experience. The smallest ferry so far carrying just two vehicles. We were second on and our back wheels were only just off the ramp which couldn’t be raised properly. Good job it was a calm sea and only a 10 minute crossing! When I told Racheal we were going on another ferry, she said ‘no’. I think she thought it would be like the overnight crossing from Lerwick to Aberdeen. Once we were on the boat, she thought it was great fun, and possibly relieved it wasn’t so rough! We had three nights at Helmsdale, a friendly 24 bed hostel with en suite rooms. It wasn’t advertised as an accessible room, but I had spoken to the warden before booking and decided we would be able to manage. It did mean carrying/dragging all our equipment all the way round the building from the car parked just the other side of a high wall to the level access at the back of the building. We used a Racheal’s smaller chair for indoors and kept her Treki in the bike shed when we weren’t using it. We were also able to hoist her onto a sofa in the common room, which she enjoyed. The day after we arrived, we set off to complete the North Coast 500. Our first stop was in Wick where we found a ‘WashMe’ automatic laundry service at the Co-op. This was the first time we hadn’t had the use of a washing machine where we were staying, but the service was efficient and the washing finished by the time we had eaten our picnic. Next stop John O Groats where it was very windy and Racheal did not like it one bit! One thing on my wish list for this trip was to visit the Castle of Mey. Unfortunately it is totally inaccessible for wheelchair users, but Summer kindly offered to sit with Racheal in the cafe while I had a look round. We followed the road to Thurso, so completing the NC500 as we turned inland at the point we had reached before going to Orkney. The A9 took us across some remote country until we got back to the east coast and returned to the hostel.

After a choppy sailing from Lerwick to Aberdeen when the best place to be was asleep in our cabin, we drove to Montrose to meet up with a Guiding friend, Laurie, who I haven’t seen for at least 20 years. She hadn’t changed a bit! We spent a pleasant day at the Scottish Wildlife reserve and by the sea, before heading north to Carron to stay with some other dear friends, Stella and Howard, for four nights. We were treated to home cooking, fresh bread, local sightseeing, a chance to relax a bit and lovely company. Summer started knitting her first pair of socks under Stella’s expert guidance, and Racheal’s log book was updated. Stella gave us a fascinating tour of Knockando Mill, where she works as a volunteer. Racheal couldn’t get everywhere, but there were plenty of things for her to feel and smell. On the way to Brodie Castle we stopped at a magnificent view point, but as usual the photos don’t do it justice. The Playful Park at Brodie Castle kept us entertained for quite a while and there were things for everyone to enjoy. The castle itself wasn’t wheelchair accessible, but Racheal and Stella went for a walk while Summer and I went on a tour of the castle. On our final day, we went for a local walk where Racheal got to smell the nearby whiskey distillery and hear the River Spey. I also managed to fit in a short catch up with an old school friend, Angela, so definitely a week of rekindling old friendships for me! A lovely time, over too soon.

We spent 5 nights on Shetland, our longest stay in one place during the whole Scotland adventure. We’ve covered the length and breadth of Shetland Mainland. We’ve driven as far south as you can go, taken the ferries to Yell and Unst going as far north as we could get, crossed the bridges to Trondra and Hamnavoe from Scalloway, and explored as far west as Eshaness. We didn’t have time to travel to the islands to the east, but Unst got us fairly well east as well as north. On the day we travelled to the north west, we visited Hillswick Wildlife Rescue Centre. There were only two seals in residence, Smudge who has a chromosome disorder and cannot return to the wild as he can’t see or swim well enough to hunt, and Leo who was rescued from Orkney at a few days old when his mum failed to return to feed him. Leo will soon be strong enough to return to the sea. Summer was able to help Racheal feed them some fish, while the centre’s founder told us about their work. We also visited a small museum at Tangwick, in the Haa (manor house). The The following day we walked into Lerwick, only a 10 minute walk. We explored the museum which had some things Racheal could feel or listen to and a lift to upstairs. After a mediocre lunch in the arts centre next door, we wandered through the small shops and took a look at the old harbour. Across the road from our ground floor flat, with level access at the back, was a play park with wheelchair accessible swing. It would be rude not to try it out! Our radar key opened the gate, and unlocked the swing from a securing post. Summer had been researching evening activities for us and found a fiddle music session about 20 minutes away in Sandwick, which we all enjoyed. The first wet day of our trip was the day we had chosen to go to Unst, the most northerly inhabited island of the British Isles. Undeterred, we set off to catch the ferry to Yell and then on to Unst. The young man directing the boarding of the Unst ferry, which carries a whopping 12 vehicles the 10 minute journey, informed us it had been ‘manic’ because of the Unst show. We later discovered virtually everything was closed because of said show, but we were able to visit the unmanned, Viking long house museum. Our biggest challenge was the path at Hermaness. This leads to the most northerly point but, despite our best efforts, we had to give up when we came to the first board walk because it had steps. The path does not claim to be wheelchair accessible, but I wanted to see how far we could get! Before heading back to Lerwick, we stopped off to post cards at the most northerly post office in Baltasound so they would get the special postmark. Our visit to Shetland was rounded off with a visit to the Croft House museum and water mill. We had been warned about the narrow doors at the Croft, so took Racheal’s smaller chair. There were lots of things for her to feel and the fire was burning so it was very cosy inside. Finally, as we waited for the ferry in the afternoon we hoped to visit Scalloway castle. However, it was closed for structural repairs so after a walk through the village we drove to Hamnavoe where we discovered a tiny cottage covered in shells.

We spent a comfortable, but short, night in one of the accessible cabins on the NorthLink ferry from Kirkwall to Lerwick. We didn’t board until 11.45pm so by the time we got to bed it was nearly 1am and the ship’s horn sounded at 6am to wake everyone to be ready to leave the ship at 7.30am. After breakfast in a café watching an otter hunting in the bay, we drove south to Sumburgh Head lighthouse. I was delighted to find that the place is now a visitor centre and some of the volunteers there knew the old lighthouse keeper who had shown us round the lighthouse when I was a teenager camping nearby with my family. Still enjoying beautiful weather, and with most of the day to fill before we could check in to our Airbnb we grabbed a quick lunch at Sumburgh airport and made use of the Changing Places Toilet before a visit to St Ninian’s Isle, or at least to the tombolo which connects it to the mainland. Once again the Treki was put through it’s paces. Getting back up the soft sand path would have been a struggle but kind people offered to help pull as Summer pushed. Racheal loved the sound of the sea on both sides of her and Summer took the opportunity to have a paddle. We knew our spacious, ground floor flat was going to be a bit of a challenge to get into as the owner had explained that the entrance porch was narrow, but fortunately there was space outside, under cover, to hoist Racheal into her Convaid Cruiser (smaller chair). This is the biggest accommodation we’ve had so far with room to leave the changing table up all the time - a real luxury!

The ferry from Scrabster to Stromness takes 90 minutes, passing by the island of Hoy and its famous stack, The Old Man of Hoy. We were boarded onto the ferry right next to the lift which took us up to a comfortable seating area. NorthLink Ferries all have a full size Changing Places Toilet, so Racheal’s personal care was reasonably easily attended to, except for the movement of the boat which made things a little trickier than usual. The sea was actually very calm, but the slightest movement can cause an incident with free moving ceiling hoist! When not in use the hoist is secured with three posts which screw into the tracking to keep it still. From the ferry terminal in Stromness we had a short drive to Orphir and the Airbnb which would be home for the next three nights. It was a ground floor flat with ramp access. Again we used Racheal’s smaller chair indoors, keeping the Treki in the car after hoisting Racheal between the two. The twin room was down a short passage round a corner, so Racheal and I shared the more easily accessible double room. The weather has been beautiful, though it’s starting to get cooler at night, we determined to make the most of our 3 nights on Orkney. It was lovely to meet up with Charlie, who I hadn’t seen for a long time. She gave us lots of suggestions for places to go and accessibility info. We went to the Italian chapel, built in the Second World War by Italian PoWs when they were drafted in to build barriers between some of the islands to prevent attack from the German navy. The door to the chapel was very narrow and we only just got Racheal’s Treki through the door. A standard wheelchair would have been easier. Skara Brae, a Neolithic village, is a must for any visitor to Orkney. Though not fully accessible due to its age and fragility, the site have done their best to make it as accessible as possible. We were able to get inside the replica house, though the corners were a bit tight, and there were some things Racheal could feel in there too. Our second day was spent in and around Stromness. A pleasant walk by the sea, picnic in the memorial garden, and browsing the shops along the narrow main street. Our final day on Orkney was a long one. Up early to try to leave the Airbnb by 10am (we were half an hour late!) and time to fill until the ferry to Shetland at 11.45pm. With no base for Racheal’s personal care we centred ourselves around Kirkwall where we had the choice of Changing Places Toilets in the hospital and the bus station. The first very light, airy and spacious, the second boiling hot, less well maintained but more convenient. Before going into Kirkwall, we visited the Sheila Fleet Kirk Gallery and cafe. The shop mostly sells eye wateringly expensive jewellery and some other local craftspeople’s wares. There’s a lift to upstairs which we made use of, but didn’t purchase anything. There’s is also a very nice cafe where Summer got to sit in a traditional Orkney chair, and there was a visitor book to add one of our gap year stickers to. After a picnic by the sea, we spent the afternoon exploring the city of Kirkwall. St Magnus cathedral and a bit of shopping. I’m quite proud that we’ve been away for two weeks and so far my shopping all fits in a small paper bag! From Kirkwall we drove west and then round the northwest coast, stopping at a place which holds special memories for me - the beach at Evie. A few moments to reflect before moving on to Birsay bay to watch the sea birds and the sun begin to set. Summer had found out about a traditional Orkney storytelling evening, 8-10pm, which filled the time nicely before we caught the ferry to Lerwick. It took place in the home of a lady who moved to Orkney from mainland Scotland in the 1970’s. The room was a treasure trove of items related to the sea and traditional Orkney life. She was happy for things to be handled, so Racheal got to feel all sorts of things. It was a great experience and we all enjoyed it very much, but sadly had to leave before the end as it overran and we needed to be at the ferry terminal in good time. Sad to leave Orkney so soon. I have loved the scenery, the ancient sites, places revisited and new discoveries, but Shetland awaits!

This interesting wall was on the outside of one of the craft units at Balnakiel craft village, right up in the northwest corner of Scotland. On the way here we found a lovely spot for a picnic enjoyed on Summer’s new picnic rug. The terrain across the north coast is not as steep, though there are still stretches of single track roads. The road crosses the causeway at Tongue, which virtually obliterates two small islands in the Kyle of Tongue, before climbing quite steeply. There are some beautiful bays and beaches along the stretch to Thurso, though we didn’t have time to stop. Thurso itself doesn’t have much character, but we found an Indian Restaurant, the Spice of Bengal, to enjoy an evening meal and celebrate Summer’s A level results a week late! We stayed in the Premier Inn for one night ready to catch the ferry to Orkney. Not the best experience of this hotel chain due to the ridiculous amount of noise from the people in the room above us! Racheal was able to have a shower in the wet room though, and the beds are always comfy.

Whilst staying at Inchnadamph, we had two full days to explore the area. The first we spent in Ullapool sampling a haddock wrap from the seafood shack and browsing the local shops. The second day we did a circular route via Drumbeg and Lochinver, back on tiny single track roads. We sampled muffins at the ‘Secret Tea Garden’ in Drumbeg followed by a picnic at the view point. After chatting with a couple from France for a while, we continued to Lochinver and the Spar shop for supplies!