Onward to Orkney

The ferry from Scrabster to Stromness takes 90 minutes, passing by the island of Hoy and its famous stack, The Old Man of Hoy. We were boarded onto the ferry right next to the lift which took us up to a comfortable seating area. NorthLink Ferries all have a full size Changing Places Toilet, so Racheal’s personal care was reasonably easily attended to, except for the movement of the boat which made things a little trickier than usual. The sea was actually very calm, but the slightest movement can cause an incident with free moving ceiling hoist! When not in use the hoist is secured with three posts which screw into the tracking to keep it still.

From the ferry terminal in Stromness we had a short drive to Orphir and the Airbnb which would be home for the next three nights. It was a ground floor flat with ramp access. Again we used Racheal’s smaller chair indoors, keeping the Treki in the car after hoisting Racheal between the two. The twin room was down a short passage round a corner, so Racheal and I shared the more easily accessible double room.

The weather has been beautiful, though it’s starting to get cooler at night, we determined to make the most of our 3 nights on Orkney.

It was lovely to meet up with Charlie, who I hadn’t seen for a long time. She gave us lots of suggestions for places to go and accessibility info. We went to the Italian chapel, built in the Second World War by Italian PoWs when they were drafted in to build barriers between some of the islands to prevent attack from the German navy. The door to the chapel was very narrow and we only just got Racheal’s Treki through the door. A standard wheelchair would have been easier.

Skara Brae, a Neolithic village, is a must for any visitor to Orkney. Though not fully accessible due to its age and fragility, the site have done their best to make it as accessible as possible. We were able to get inside the replica house, though the corners were a bit tight, and there were some things Racheal could feel in there too.

Our second day was spent in and around Stromness. A pleasant walk by the sea, picnic in the memorial garden, and browsing the shops along the narrow main street.

Our final day on Orkney was a long one. Up early to try to leave the Airbnb by 10am (we were half an hour late!) and time to fill until the ferry to Shetland at 11.45pm. With no base for Racheal’s personal care we centred ourselves around Kirkwall where we had the choice of Changing Places Toilets in the hospital and the bus station. The first very light, airy and spacious, the second boiling hot, less well maintained but more convenient.

Before going into Kirkwall, we visited the Sheila Fleet Kirk Gallery and cafe. The shop mostly sells eye wateringly expensive jewellery and some other local craftspeople’s wares. There’s a lift to upstairs which we made use of, but didn’t purchase anything. There’s is also a very nice cafe where Summer got to sit in a traditional Orkney chair, and there was a visitor book to add one of our gap year stickers to.

After a picnic by the sea, we spent the afternoon exploring the city of Kirkwall. St Magnus cathedral and a bit of shopping. I’m quite proud that we’ve been away for two weeks and so far my shopping all fits in a small paper bag!

From Kirkwall we drove west and then round the northwest coast, stopping at a place which holds special memories for me - the beach at Evie. A few moments to reflect before moving on to Birsay bay to watch the sea birds and the sun begin to set.

Summer had found out about a traditional Orkney storytelling evening, 8-10pm, which filled the time nicely before we caught the ferry to Lerwick. It took place in the home of a lady who moved to Orkney from mainland Scotland in the 1970’s. The room was a treasure trove of items related to the sea and traditional Orkney life. She was happy for things to be handled, so Racheal got to feel all sorts of things. It was a great experience and we all enjoyed it very much, but sadly had to leave before the end as it overran and we needed to be at the ferry terminal in good time.

Sad to leave Orkney so soon. I have loved the scenery, the ancient sites, places revisited and new discoveries, but Shetland awaits!